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Old 04-10-2011, 10:22 PM   #1
micus
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Default Anyone experienced with Holley carbs?

hey guys, this deosnt necessarily apply to classics but since it is a carb question i figured i would post it in the classic section since most of you old timers know alot about carburetors. Ive got a Holley 600 cfm that i aquired for free, needs to be rebuilt. ive got it fully disassembled with all the pieces soaking in solvent. I have bought the required rebuild kit however this is the first time ive attempted to rebuild a carb and am not familiar with any tricks related to assembly. Im planning on just following the re-assembly intructions but is there anything in particular that i should do to this thing while its apart or something i can do to it while its apart that will help with reliability?
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Old 04-10-2011, 11:05 PM   #2
falconguy63
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holleys are simple to rebuild. make sure all threads and matic surfaces are clean. blow out all passages and orfices. dont overtighten anything cuz the zinc can be easuly damaged.
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you obviously bore it .010" then finish hone it, then put an elastic on the diegrinder trigger and dangle that bitch into the bore and watch bounce around in there...thats how you get the .5

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Old 04-10-2011, 11:16 PM   #3
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x2 on blowing out the air passages..make sure the gaskets that you put on are the exact ones you took off since the kit comes with so many different ones..also make sure you use the right power valve if your kit came with 2 in the box
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Old 04-10-2011, 11:26 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by BullittMustang View Post
x2 on blowing out the air passages..make sure the gaskets that you put on are the exact ones you took off since the kit comes with so many different ones..also make sure you use the right power valve if your kit came with 2 in the box
yup, base plate to main body gastket is critcal, aswell as metering plate gastkets if its a non adjustable secondary metering system.
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Dan: '90 LX coupe: 5.0/T-5/8.8", bolts ons:
Best ET: 12.14
Best MPH: 110.70

'63 Falcon Futura: 289/c4/9", bolts ons, 13.49 @101.10


Quote:
you obviously bore it .010" then finish hone it, then put an elastic on the diegrinder trigger and dangle that bitch into the bore and watch bounce around in there...thats how you get the .5

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Old 04-11-2011, 04:52 PM   #5
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thanks for the tips guys. i took the carb out of the solvent and there was still lots of varnish and nasty shit all over it so i picked up some hydro seal which from what i read is about the nastiest shit you can get so when i pull it out of its bath ill let you guys know how it goes, may end up on here with more questions again haha. theres ALOT of little bits.
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Old 04-11-2011, 05:04 PM   #6
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I soak all my carb brass parts in seafoam
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Old 04-11-2011, 10:22 PM   #7
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REgular solvent like in a solvent tank is a waste of time if the carbs at all dirty inside. The best is a 5 gallon can of proper carb cleaner, which you put the pieces in the metal basket, and dunk everything down inside the can of cleaner. Its sometimes called Cold parts cleaner. It smells nasty, and will burn your bars skin. After a few hours o=(or more) of soaking, rince with hot water & blow everything dry. Unless you plan to do quite a few carbs, this type of cleaner is pretty pricey, maybe you can find a shop that will soak your stuff for a decent price. Also use a genuine Holley carb kit, not some cheap Napa or Echlin kit. They often have cheap needle & seats that can damage the threads in the float bowls, restrictive power valves and needle & seats. A Holley "Renew" kit isn`t very expensive, a "Trick Kit" has a bunch of extra accelerator pump cams, squirters,&sec. vacuum springs for fine tuning, so it naturally costs more $$. Your choice if the extar cost is warrented, but for a fairly mild engine, the Renew kit should be fine.
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Old 04-12-2011, 08:08 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcfairmont View Post
REgular solvent like in a solvent tank is a waste of time if the carbs at all dirty inside. The best is a 5 gallon can of proper carb cleaner, which you put the pieces in the metal basket, and dunk everything down inside the can of cleaner. Its sometimes called Cold parts cleaner. It smells nasty, and will burn your bars skin. After a few hours o=(or more) of soaking, rince with hot water & blow everything dry. Unless you plan to do quite a few carbs, this type of cleaner is pretty pricey, maybe you can find a shop that will soak your stuff for a decent price. Also use a genuine Holley carb kit, not some cheap Napa or Echlin kit. They often have cheap needle & seats that can damage the threads in the float bowls, restrictive power valves and needle & seats. A Holley "Renew" kit isn`t very expensive, a "Trick Kit" has a bunch of extra accelerator pump cams, squirters,&sec. vacuum springs for fine tuning, so it naturally costs more $$. Your choice if the extar cost is warrented, but for a fairly mild engine, the Renew kit should be fine.


yah the hydro seal is specifically designed as a carb cleaner, i know what you mean by price, it was almost 40$ for a gallon, i just have everything soaking in a bucket on the porch in it. i got the carb given to me with a "HYGRADE" kit, not sure of its quality but it looks like your general cheapo parts store kit, i may go for the holley renew setup.
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Old 04-12-2011, 10:54 PM   #9
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If the needle & seat hardware consists of a thick brass nut with a small slot head on the top of the needle valve, DO NOT USE IT! A real Holley style needle & seat will have 2 flats on the sides at the top, with a 5/8`s" head nut for adjusting, and a steel flat top slotted lock screw on top. The brass cheapy kits use the brass nut to lock the slotted screw, and often have incorrect pitch threads, which can damage the float bowl. Get a real Holley kit.
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Old 04-23-2011, 09:00 AM   #10
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Make sure that the body is straight and not warped. If you got the cheap rebuild kit take it back and get the performance kit.
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